Surfer Stories: 12 Untold Stories by 12 Writers about 12 of the World's Greatest Surfers

Summary

SURFER STORIES IS AN UNRIVALED COLLECTION OF STORIES ABOUT TWELVE OF THE WORLD’S GREATEST SURFERS.

From the monstrous walls of water at Teahupoo, to the reef-scraping barrels of Pipeline, to the endless peeling break of Jeffreys Bay, legendary surfers have made their mark on surf history, distinguished by the fearlessness, grace, and artistry displayed while riding the most exalted waves.

Each surfer’s story is told by a different writer—fellow surfers, famed authors, celebrities, musicians, and surf journalists—who shares a passion for surfing. Surfer Stories offers an insightful perspective on the life of each surfer, both in and out of the water, as could only be told by the writer with whom they are paired:

Shaun Tomson on Kelly Slater
Sam George on Laird Hamilton
Holly Peterson on Robert “Wingnut” Weaver
Gerry Lopez on Garrett McNamara
Chris Carter on Shaun Tomson
Liza Monroy on Keala Kennelly
Chris Shiflett on Tom Curren
Jamie Brisick on Derek Hynd
Brett Crozier on Bethany Hamilton
Jim Kempton on Gerry Lopez
Karen Rinaldi on Rell Sunn
Selema Masekela on Michael February

The sport of surfing has a mystique and allure that has transformed many of these icons into mythical figures. Surfer Stories brings them together in one definitive collection that will appeal to those who surf and those who don’t!

“Surfing, much like dance, is a beautiful blend of strength, grace, and artistry. Watching surfers like Rell Sunn, Gerry Lopez, and Kelly Slater move across the waves is like witnessing a choreography of balance and flow—a true testament to the harmony between the body and the ocean. Theirs and the other nine stories in this book are a profound inspiration and reminder of the power of passion and resilience—both on and beyond the surfboard.”—Misty Copeland, Principal Dancer with American Ballet Theater and New York Times Bestselling Author